We used 8mm Pergo Max tongue-and-groove engineered wood flooring in Handscraped Richland Hickory (which we bought at Lowe’s). We went with the tongue-and groove design for easier instillation and a smooth finish when complete. Our bathroom did not have an existing ceiling in place so we attached the wood planks directly to the joists.
This project required the following tools:
- Engineered Flooring
- Air Pressure Staple Gun (you could also use a nail gun)
- Air Compressor
- Measuring Tape
- Mitre Saw
- Engineered Flooring Strike Block
- Rubber Mallet
Begin installation of wood ceiling by starting in a corner and paying attention as to which side of each plank is the “installation” side. Also know that each plank will have two different ends. One of the ends is the side that is installed first, and the other end is the side that locks into the “installed” side. Determine the correct side and using a full plank, attach to the joist with an angled flooring stapler properly placed against the edge of each plank. (Remember to carefully aim the staple [or nail] gun so that it punctures only the ‘tongue’ area of the wood and not the finished section. You should not see any staples/nails when you are finished.)
Slide the ‘groove’ slot of the next plank of wood up against the end of the first plank and use a rubber mallet to maneuver the pieces together for a snug fit. Be certain that they are lined up with each other and not crooked; otherwise the next length of flooring that is attached will have gaps and fit improperly. Also ensure that the wood planks start and end on joists otherwise the ends will sag.
As each run comes into contact with a joist or the opposite end of each wall the planks will need to be cut to size with a chop (or mitre) saw. Once cut, use the leftover pieces to create a staggered effect for the next run of wood. Essentially – you don’t want all of the pieces to start and stop on the same joists – that will create weak areas as well as look awkward.
Roughly halfway across the ceiling, a rhythm will start to take place and the installation will move increasingly faster. Once any air vents or junction boxes are reached, mark wood flooring planks with pencil and cut to size with chop saw or using jigsaw. Once ceiling is completely covered, you will re-install air vents and light fixtures.
The final step (which we have not yet completed) will be installing crown molding around the border of the ceiling. This will hide any gaps between the tiled walls and the ceiling. If you are installing wood to an already dry-walled ceiling, you probably will not have gaps and thus not need to do the trim work.